West Highland Way: Kings House Hotel to Kinlochleven

Notes

General Data

This short leg is exceptionally varied. The first couple of miles parallel the A82 west-northwestwards through Glen Coe. There then follows one of the most feared stretches of the trail - a steep 850-foot climb along the zigzags of the Devil’s Staircase. The top marks the highest point on the entire trail, and the exertion is rewarded with grand views back to the mountains of Glen Coe and north towards the Mamores; in good weather the summit of Ben Nevis can be seen peeking from above the other hills.

The trail descends into a little valley before climbing up a ridge and descending the other side. As it descends the path becomes a rough, rocky track that eventually meets a higher-quality track near the start of a pipeline. What follows is a boring and sometimes steep descent along the track that is only occasionally enlivened by views through gaps in the trees. Eventually the track approaches the village of Kinlochleven, crossing the beautiful River Leven to approach it from the west.

Distance  9.1 miles
Ascent  1611 feet
Descent  2379 feet
Est. time  5 hours 1 minutes
Difficulty  hard

Map of the leg


Maps courtesy of Google Maps. Route for indicative purposes only, and may have been plotted after the walk. Please let me have comments on what you think of this new format.

Directions

Leave the Kings House Hotel and use the bridge just behind it to cross the River Etive. Head north for a sixth of a mile down a track until it ends at a T-junction with a surfaced track at NN259549. Turn left down this track and follow it westwards for a little over half a mile. Shortly before it meets the A82(T) turn right through a wooden gate to join a rough path.

This path follows the Old Military Road as it slowly ascends west-northwestwards to summit at a height of 310 metres before descending slowly back towards the main road. On the way it crosses a couple of wooden gates; it passes another to approach the A82(T). The path heads northwestwards with the road on the left, passing through a series of gates as it squeezes between the road and some farm sheds. It eventually crosses a footbridge to reach Altnafeadh (NN220563). Pass the house and cross another footbridge over the Allt a’ Mhain to approach a lay-by.

After the wooded area ends a path leads off the road and up the hill to the right, initially along steps. This soon curves to the left to cross a footbridge over a gorge that carries the Allt a’ Mhain downhill and continues uphill with the stream on the left. At first the ascent is relatively gradual as it follows the burn, but it soon steepens and the path starts to zigzag as it ascends. This part of the path is known as the Devil's Staircase and is nowhere near as hard as it looks, even with a heavy pack. A couple of cairns mark the top of the climb, which is situated in a pass between the summits of Stob Mhic Mhartuin to the west and Beinn Bheag to the east. At 548 metres this is the highest point on the West Highland Way and there are some lovely views available of the Mamores ahead to the north and the hills of Glen Coe behind to the south.

From the top of the Devil's Staircase the path starts to descend slowly to ford the Allt a’ Choire Odhair-Bhig. On the other side it climbs uphill once more to cross a ridge before descending to reach a bridge over the Allt a' Choire Odhair-Mhoir, where it turns to take a more northwesterly direction. It soon reaches a track next to the building that houses the top of the pipes that carry water from Blackwater Reservoir down to the Kinlochleven power station) at NN202605. This is the start of a long slog downhill, a slog which is only enlivened by the bridge that passes the attractive waterfall and dam of the Allt Coire Mhorair.

After the bridge the track becomes less steep as it continues to descend, eventually paralleling the pipeline that lead down into Kinlochleven; the track and pipeline descend together towards the site of the old aluminium factory at Kinlochleven, which was demolished in the early 2000’s. Just before the site of the factory the West Highland Way turns off to the right, crossing a bridge over the pipes. A rough path then descends to reach a bridge over the River Leven at NN192617.

Cross the bridge, and on the northern side turn left to join a good track that parallels the river; this soon becomes Wades Road that leads northwestwards into Kinlochleven. As Morrison Crescent comes in from the right, turn left down a surfaced path that heads along the northern bank of the river into the centre of the town. It soon meets the B863 road at NN187619.

 
 

Places of interest

Kings House Hotel

The King's House Hotel is set in the remote heart of Glen Coe. It is the only accommodation between Inveroran and Kinlochleven, and is therefore popular with walkers on the West Highland Way.

The first buildings on the site were built in the 17th Century; it is situated right beside the old drove road between Skye and the cattle markets of Central Scotland. A military road was later built through Glen Coe and the inn was used as a barracks for the troops of King George III after Culloden. This use led to it being named the 'King's House' - a place where the King's men could stop for the night.

It is a place of amazing solitude, even with the main road to Fort William passing a short distance away. When the Blackwater Reservoir was built in the early 1900s the men would come down to the inn to drink before returning into the hills the next night.

location UID #248

Kings House Hotel

The King's House Hotel is set in the remote heart of Glen Coe. It is the only accommodation between Inveroran and Kinlochleven, and is therefore popular with walkers on the West Highland Way.

The first buildings on the site were built in the 17th Century; it is situated right beside the old drove road between Skye and the cattle markets of Central Scotland. A military road was later built through Glen Coe and the inn was used as a barracks for the troops of King George III after Culloden. This use led to it being named the 'King's House' - a place where the King's men could stop for the night.

It is a place of amazing solitude, even with the main road to Fort William passing a short distance away. When the Blackwater Reservoir was built in the early 1900s the men would come down to the inn to drink before returning into the hills the next night.

location UID #248

Kinlochleven and aluminium

Kinlochleven is a small town situated at the heads of Loch Leven, a large sea loch that juts eight miles inland from Loch Linnhe. It was originally two small hamlets; Kinlochmore and Kinlochbeag.

The nature of the villages changed when a massive aluminium smelter opened in 1907, powered by hydroelectricity provided from the Blackwater Reservoir in the hills high above. At times 800 men were employed by the smelter, meaning that it dominated the local economy. Sadly the plant's technology became outdated and the plant closed in June 2000 with the loss of nearly 100 jobs. Fortunately this has not led to the death of the village and several tourist developments have replaced parts of the factory. The large numbers of walkers who pass through on the West Highland Way must also help the local economy.

location UID #250
 
 

Transport

Public transport between the Kings House and Kinlochleven is difficult; Highland Country offers a bus servicee between Kinlochleven and Glencoe village. After this it gets more difficult; it may be easier to walk the eight miles through Glen Coe back to the Kings House.

If you wish to go by bus, then Citylink services 914 will take you to Tyndrum, and 978 from Tyndrum to Kings House. There is only one service a day that is really convenient for this journey, so care needs to be taken.

As usual, Traveline Scotland is an excellent resource for planning public transport journeys.

Map information

Landranger (1:50,000)   Explorer (1:25,000)
Landranger 41 (Ben Nevis, Fort William & Glen Coe)
or
Explorer 384 (Glen Coe & Glen Etive)
 
 

Photos of this leg

The river by the Kings House Hotel.The hills of Glencoe.The path heading westwards away from the main road.The path heading westwards away from the main road.The path heading westwards away from the main road.The footbridge at Lagangarbh.The ascent up the Devil's Staircase.The ascent up the Devil's Staircase.The ascent up the Devil's Staircase.The view from the top of the Devil's Staircase. A cairn at the top of the Devil's Staircase. Myself at the top of the Devil's Staircase. The descent down towards the Allt a' Choire Odhair-bhig.The descent down towards the Allt a' Choire Odhair-bhig.The Allt a' Choire Odhair-bhig.A distant view over Blackwater Reservoir.Descending down towards Kinlochleven.Descending down towards Kinlochleven.Descending down towards Kinlochleven.The Allt a' Choire Odhair-mhoir.Happy birthday!Descending down towards Kinlochleven.The pipeline descending down towards Kinlochleven.A leaky joint.The River Leven.The River Leven.The Tailrace Inn, Kinlochleven.

Accommodation information

tents
Black Water Hostel & Campsite
Lab Road
Kinlochleven
Argyll
PH50 4SG
P: 01855 831253
W: www.blackwaterhostel.co.uk
E: black.water@virgin.net

Grid ref: NN189620 (56.714505,-4.960434)
7572
Bunkhouse
West Highland Lodge Bunkhouse
Brae
Kinlochleven
Argyll
PH50 4RT
P: 01855 831253
W: www.blackwaterhostel.co.uk
E: black.water@virgin.net

Grid ref: NN187617 (56.711372,-4.962859)
7575
B&B
Edencoille Guest House
Garbhein Road
Kinlochleven
Argyll
PH50 4SE
P: 01855 831 358
W: www.kinlochlevenbedandbreakfas...
E: info@kinlochlevenbedandbreakfast.co.uk

Grid ref: NN182618 (56.71239,-4.971963)
7576
 
B&B
Tigh-Na-Cheo
Garbhein Road
Kinlochleven
Argyll
PH50 4SE
P: 01855 831434
W: http://www.tigh-na-cheo.co.uk/
E: reception@tigh-na-cheo.co.uk

Grid ref: NN183619 (56.713059,-4.970243)
7577
B&B
Highland Getaway
28 Leven Road
Kinlochleven
Argyll
PH50 4RP
P: 01855 831 258
W: www.travel-lite-uk.com
E: info:highlandgetaway.co.uk

Grid ref: NN187619 (56.713451,-4.96353)
7578
B&B
Failte
6 Lovat Road
Kinlochleven
Argyll
PH50 4RG
P: 01855 831 394
E: Xmsweeneyx@aol.com

Grid ref: NN191621 (56.715209,-4.957044)
7580
 
B&B
Forest View
24 Wades Road
Kinlochleven
Argyll
PH50 4QX
P: 01855 831302
W: www.forestviewbnb.co.uk
E: forestviewbnb@btconnect.com

Grid ref: NN191620 (56.714576,-4.957666)
7581
tents
Hotel
MacDonald Hotel and campsite
Fort William Road
Kinlochleven
Argyll
PH50 4QL
P: 01855 831539
W: www.macdonaldhotel.co.uk
E: nquiries@macdonaldhotel.co.uk

Grid ref: NN182623 (56.716457,-4.972)
7583
Hotel
Kings House Hotel
Glencoe
Argyll & Bute
PH49 4HY
W: http://www.kingy.com/

Grid ref: NN259547 (56.651405,-4.841103)
7564
 
tents
Kings House Hotel camping


Grid ref: NN260548 (56.652163,-4.839542)
7565
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